Madeira Skyrunning Adventures

By Katinka Nyberg

In the beginning of June I went on this fantastic trip together with Trailrun Adventures & Retreats founded by Anna Frost and Ron Braselton.

As a mountain lover, new-born Skyrunner, sports freak and outdoor lover. This was a trip in my taste. In only one week I’ve been doing all these things as I have just dreamed of before.

I’ve been running my first Skyrace, I’ve been mountaineering in the beautiful mountains of Madeira, I’ve been running along the beautiful coastline, canyoning in the rivers and surfing in the waves.

Madeira is amazing and the variety of this Island is endless. Check out my experiences from the week…

Friday – Arriving to Santana

I arrived to Santana one day before the Santana Skyrace and Braz picked me up at the airport. I was full of expectations and also a little bit nervous if I was going to make it. This was my first real Skyrace, and also my first trailrunning trip in the mountains running that much in one week.

And as the owners of the travel agency are Anna Frost (Frosty) and Ron Brazelton (Braz), I was also a little bit nervous about that I wasn’t going to be a good enough runner. But Braz was very nice and calmed me down on that part. He said that this is a trip just for pleasure, and we are not going to go that fast. You will be ok!

I know that I had been training a lot this year, but would that be enough. Going to the gym, running in the wood, running laps in an 86 m high slalom slope is not really the same thing as the mountains of Madeira.

Enough of worry and more action 🙂 It turned out later that week that I would be totally fine, being able to participate and enjoy every activity and every each moment of the trip…

Avrivning to Quinta Do Furao

When we arrived to Quinta Do Furao, Santana, I was absolutely amazed by the beautiful place and gorgeous scenery. This was a place where you could really relax and enjoy.

Hotel Quinta Do Furao, Santana, Madeira

Saturday – Santana Skyrace

This was the day that I had been waiting for and training for all year. Santana Skyrace 23k, 1670 D+, arranged by Ultra Skyrunning Madeira.

I run the race as planned and it was a great race experience. It was very hot, very hard and very technical. If you like to read more about the race and review my race report check out Santana Skyrace 2019 race experience >>.

Katinka Nyberg Santana Skyrace.

Sunday – The group arrives

The rest of the group arrives at the hotel and we start to get to know each other on a cup of coffee watching the beautiful scenery. It’s was a small group of very nice people that all of us loves everything about running, so that was a great start.

The hotel view – Hotel Quinta Do Furao, Santana, Madeira

Monday – Skyrunning Pico Ruivo

The week kicks of with a run of about 5 hours on the top of the Island and we run some of the parts from Madeira Skyrace 55k. Starting at Teixeira, running up high above the clouds to Pico Ruivo and then following the unique pathway of steps and single trail connecting to Pico Areeiro.

Our guides Braz and Gonçalo has been very good taking us around to all those fantastic places, and I have to say that this is the most beautiful run that I have ever experienced so check out the video below.

Our very best guide Gonçalo Pais

Braz is showing us his beautiful mountains of Madeira

Marisha on the top of Teixeira

On our way to Pico Ruivo watching the beautiful scenery

On our way to Pico Ruivo along the steep trails

Tuesday – Canyoning 

This was something totally new to me. Canyoning in the river, climbing down in ropes and doing a jump of 12 meters. It was a great experience and everyone in the group loved it!

Too bad that they might have to shut it down next year because of Levada.

Canyoning through the exotic rivers

Using the ropes to get down next to the waterfall

Wednesday – Trailrunning the Coastline & Surf

We started the day with a run of about 2.5 hours from the coastal village of Portela over the incredible ridges and back along a high coastal path to Porto da Cruz. After that we just jumped into the ocean and I tried surfing for the first time in my life. It was great and I made it! 🙂

We rounded up the day with a very nice lunch at a fish restaurant in the village of Portela.

This was my favourite day!

My very nice roommate Tiphaine

Marisha and Paul on their way down to the surfer beach

Finally I (Katinka) made it!!

Thursday – Stunning Running & Boat trip

This day started with an easy run of about 1.5 hours at the stunning and diverse Ponta de St Lourenco Peninsula. After the run we went on a relaxing boat trip sunbathing and watching the dolphins.

Boat trip sunbathing and watching the dolphins

Watching the beautiful views at Ponta de St Lourenco Peninsula

Paul and Marisha running along at Ponta de St Lourenco Peninsula

Friday – Running the Levadas

This was the longest and toughest run of the week, and to my big surprise it was also the groups favourite day. The run was about 5 hours and we were running from from Ilah along the ancient and incredible Levadas engineering all the way to Cruzinhas. The day started off with ice cold rain and we were all freezing. We kept going, and finally when we got to the absolutely gorgeous waterfalls, it was all worth it.

We were rounding up the day with about 500 meters passing through the same river as in the Madeira Skyrace 55k, which was great.

Paul enjoying the rain at Levada

Katinka and Marisha at the waterfall, Levada

From Levada on our way to the river

Tiphaine passing through the river

Celebrating a great week!

This was a great week and a great group! Everyone agree that the whole trip was amazing and a memory for lifetime. All the activities were so well and carefully picked by Braz and Anna, and I think that we all understand that this type of trip takes years of experiences and knowledge to arrange.

Last night with the group we rounded up the week by talking about our experiences and everyone was to pick their favourite day.

The winner day was Friday. Running along the Levada.

Last night with the group celebrating a great week full of adventures

Thank you, guys!

Thank you, guys, for making this trip special and amazing! And extra thanks to Braz and Anna that made it possible.

Happy Skyrunning!

By Katinka This article was originally published at SkyRunner.

Madeira Wine: “the wine that made the round trip”

Madeiras is one of the few wines to have changed little since it first became popular over two hundred years ago. This complex family of fortified wines hails from the tiny island of Madeira, Portugal, and is known for its notes of burnt caramel and nuttiness. Born at sea, Madeiras are a rich and exotic wine worthy to be explored. Here’s what you need to know to set sails on your own Madeiras adventure.

What is Madeira Wine?

• A versatile fortified wine ranging from dry to sweet. Lower quality Madeiras are usually used for cooking while higher quality or vintage wines are enjoyed as an aperitif or for sipping with deserts.

• Madeiras drinkers will enjoy notes of caramel, burnt sugar, walnut, peach, orange peel, and hazelnut.

• Madeira wine ranges 18-20 percent alcohol by volume (ABV).

Photo retrieved from Wikipedia

The History of Madeira Wine

Madeira wine was born on the little island of Madeira, a member of a small archipelago clustered 400 miles off the coast of Morocco. The ancients knew this little archipelago as the Enchanted Isles, particularly Madeira. The beautiful island is lush with vegetation thanks to generous rainfall and a semi-tropical climate. Which begs the question: how on earth did this unlikely place become one of the most esteemed and sought after producers of fine and vintage wines?

It was basically by accident. An accident born at sea.

Funchal Bay in 1860. Merchant ships loaded up on Madeiras for the long journey to the Americas and Asia. Photo courtesy of www.madeira-web.com.

The Portuguese settled the isles in 1419. Initially, the sandy soil of Porto Santo held much greater potential for sweet wines than the lushness of nearby Madeira. But the opening of the New World brought unprecedented traffic to the long neglected isle of Madeira. The larger island became a popular port-of-call for ships heading to the New World. Before embarking, sailors stocked their larders with the island’s wines. If not enjoyed immediately, though, the young and unripe wines of Madeira spoiled at sea. Accordingly, wine stocked aboard ships was fortified with sugar spirits, thus bolstering the alcohol content and increasing longevity. Unlike traditional wines, sailors were delighted to find that fortified Madeiras actually got better with the long, balmy journey to and from the tropical waters of the New World. By accident, the world had discovered the perfect recipe for creating an enchantingly complex wine.

Born at sea, Madeiras were christened Vinho da Roda, or, wines that made the round trip.

Madeira wines saw their golden age in the 18th century. Their popularity spread from the American colonies and Brazil to Northern Africa, Great Britain, and Russia. The American colonies had an outstanding taste for Madeira wines, consuming up to 95 percent of the island’s exports each year.

Funchal, the capital city of Madeira. Photo retrieved from Wikipedia.

The end of an era

With months long voyages from Europe to distant lands a thing of the past, the traditional process of aging Madeira wine is long extinct. Instead, the long hot sea voyages are replicated by warming the fortified wine to a toasty 120 degrees F (45 C) for at least three months. Finer Madeiras are aged longer at lower temperatures. The final product is imbued with the caramely tang characteristic of all Madeiras.

Today, most exported Madeiras are blended wines. Finer Madeiras are finished by barrel aging alone, sometimes aging for a century or more before bottling. Many commercial Colheita Madeiras are the product of a single year and barrel aged five years.

A workhorse and the “noble grapes”

The Tinta Negra variety of grape accounts for roughly 90 percent of all grapes grown on Madeira. Today, most Madeira wines are labeled according to age (3,5, 10, and 15 years) and style (dry, medium, and rich, among others). If it is not labeled as being made with traditional grape variety (the “noble grapes”) it is to be understood they are of the Tinta Negra variety. Madeiras created with traditional grape varieties are labeled as such. And of course, they’re more expensive.

The four vintage Madeira varieties. Image courtesy of www.madeira-web.com.

By Christian This article was originally published at ilovewine.com

To read more about Madeira wine, visit:

https://ilovewine.com/madeira-wine-the-wine-that-made-the-round-trip/

To read more about trail running in Madeira, visit:

https://www.trailrunadventures.com/madeira

Anna Frost on How Pregnancy and Professional Running Coexist

Check out this link for a questions and answers with Ultimate Direction and Anna Frost

http://blog.ultimatedirection.com/anna-frost-on-how-pregnancy-and-professional-running-coexist/

2018 Gift Guide for Trail Runners

Do you have a trail runner in your life? Or does your significant other need a little help picking out a gift for you? We have you covered with our trail runner gift guide. Win at the holidays with our favorite gear picks.

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Merrell Agility Synthesis Flex Trail Running Shoe

(Merrell)

Available in both men’s and women’s, this trail shoe performs well on long distance runs, scrambles up mountains, and quick jaunts, and basically everything in between. It is lightweight and protective with an aggressive traction for whatever challenge you find on the trail.

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Ultimate Direction Fastpack 15 ($119.95)

(Ultimate direction)

This is one of our go-to packs for long days on the trail. The 15L size means you’ll have plenty of space for that puffy jacket and all your run essentials. Even with plenty of capacity, this pack still fits securely with no bounce. The front zipper design is a huge life saver when trying to find something in the pack mid-run!

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Ultimate Direction FK Gaiter ($49.95)

(Ultimate Direction)

Rock and sand in your shoes are both a waste of time and no fun! These gaiters do their job and keep the junk out so you can do your job and enjoy the trail. Major perks to these gaiters include three size options so they fit snugly and replaceable strap.

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Black Diamond Distance Carbon Z Trekking Poles ($169.95)

(Black Diamond)

These folding poles are incredibly lightweight and strong. We couldn’t imagine heading up a volcano without them - plus they are a lifesaver on the steep downhills too. We’ve also been known to use these to fend off viscous dogs on the trail. When you aren’t using them, fold them up and throw them on your pack.

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BUFF Original Multifunctional Headwear (Starting at $20.00)

(BUFF)

You can never have too many Buffs! For both men and women, this multifunctional headwear is a must-have item. Use it to keep your ears warm, keep the sun off your neck (UPF 50 protection), and so much more. With countless colors, patterns, and styles, the possibilities are endless.

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Book: Sky Runner: Finding Strength, Happiness, And Balance In Your Running By Emelie Forsberg ($29.99)

(Emelie forsberg)

This inspiring book by one of the world’s best trail runners, Emelie Forsberg, is honest and rounded.

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LIFEPROOF NÜÜD Phone Case ($89.99-$169.99)

(Lifeproof)

You never know when the rain and snow will join you on the trail. This case keeps your phone protected from the water, snow, and dirt, but makes sure you can still capture the photos of every adventure.

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Feetures Elite Light Cushion Mini Crew ($17.99)

(Feetures)

Every runner would agree, you can never have too many good socks! We love the seamless toe on Feetures, super soft feel, and of course the lifetime guarantee. (Available in men’s and women’s styles)

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Squirrel's Nut Butter SNB Stick ($12.95)

(Squirrel’s nut butter)

Squirrel's Nut Butter is a perfect stocking stuffer! Save the nipples! (And feet, crotch, underarms and more!) No one likes chafing and this anti-chafe salve is all natural with simple ingredients. If we are going to be rubbing something all over our body, it better be ingredients we can pronounce!

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2019 Calendar (15,00€)

(Jordi Saragossa)

Stunning photos make this limited edition calendar a daily reminder of adventures near and far. Photos are by Jordi Saragossa, design by Maria Fainé and special collaboration with Pau Capell, François D’Haene, Emelie Forsberg, Rémi Bonnet, Ida Nilsson, Tòfol Castanyer, Luis Alberto Hernando, Mimmi Kotka, Anna Frost, Marco De Gasperi, Philipp Reiter, Laura Orgué and Kilian Jornet.

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Trail Run Adventures Trip (Price Varies)

Give the gift of adventure with a 2019 or 2020 guided trip with Trail Run Adventures. Current dates are set for Madeira, Norway, Tour du Mont Blanc, Greece, Kenya, and Japan. Take a runcation and we’ll handle the planning for an epic trip!

Ecuador 2018 Part 2

By Ashley Vander Meeden

Day 8 – Compared to our last peak hike, Fuya Fuya was a short and sweet 3-mile out and back. Not far from the town of Otavalo, this ancient volcano sits in the midst of three sparkling lakes and páramo grasslands. We started the hike at Mojanda Lake with clouds settled comfortably around the lake and mountain peaks. From the top, we were enveloped in clouds, blocking another spectacular view (we’d been pretty lucky on weather so we couldn’t really complain). As we started the downhill run, the clouds lifted to reveal the familiar combination of volcanoes, grasses, and lakes that never gets old. Hanging up our shoes for the day, we spent the afternoon immersed in the vibrant colors of alpaca-wool sweaters, scarves, textiles, blankets, and more in the Plaza de los Ponchos in Otavalo. We navigated the maze of vendors in the market, haggled politely, and eventually took home our treasures.

Day 9 – We started the day with a quick jaunt to the nearby waterfall Taxopamba. After giving our legs a little love, we jumped on the bus for over 5 hours to the Amazon. When we finally arrived, we immediately started peeling off layers. It was hot! We unloaded the bags, only so they could be loaded back onto giant motorized canoes, to travel from Punta Ahuano to the Anaconda Lodge. We arrived on the island, that is located between the Napo and Arajuno rivers, just in time to watch the sunset before dinner. Usually after dinner we talked about what our plans were for the next day and headed to bed early. This night we snagged our headlamps and long pants to head into the jungle for a night walk. We walked slowly along the path as every two seconds it seemed someone found a giant spider, bullet ant (giant ants with extremely potent stings, the highest level on the Schmidt pain index), or owl butterfly. As we inched along the path, our Kichwa guide, Cesar, disappeared down to the water’s edge. He emerged triumphantly with a baby caiman (small sized crocodilian) in his hands. From the small wood dock, we stood mesmerized as we scanned the water and gold eyes from caiman reflected back at us.

Day 10 – “Forward three” Paddle. Paddle. Paddle. “FORWARD!” On our guide’s command, we furiously paddled straight into a rapid. After over a week of tight lipped showers and bottled water for drinking and tooth brushing, the Rio Jatunyacu water slapped into our grins without mercy. This river, also known as The Upper Rio Napo or “Big Water” in Quichua, the indigenous language, is fed from the Cotopaxi Volcano and is exceptionally clean. We traded the trail for two rafts as we covered 25k on the water. We floated peacefully past vertical walls covered in orchids and the jungle rising all around us. Between tranquil sections of river, our ears were alerted to the alternating sounds of the distant rumble of upcoming rapids and the jarring loud motors of the illegal gold mining suction dredges. Halfway through the day we headed to shore to enjoy a delicious lunch prepared by our guides. Local Kichwa women from the “Shandia” community gathered to sell jewelry, purses, and other beautiful handmade items. We loaded our purchases in to dry bags and headed back to the water. We resumed the pattern of rapid then calm pool, over and over again. As we neared the town of Tena, a light drizzle coated are already soaked bodies. Many of us jumped in the water at this point, as we were already wet. Just as we were ending the day, the sky produced an enormous rainbow to cap off an epic day on the river in the Amazon.

Day 11 – Right after breakfast we headed back out into the jungle on our last day in the Amazon. The canoes took us past an island where capuchin monkeys swung in the trees. We floated silently below in the water as they playfully interacted with each other, completely ignorant of our presence. We continued on to an island with primary and secondary jungle. Veronica translated as our guide Cesar spoke to us about the trees and other plants in the jungle. We looked at trees that were used traditionally for shelter, basket weaving, roofing, and medicinal healing. After showers and lunch, we got on the bus to return to the Andes to the town of Papallacta and the magical resort of Termas Papallacta.

Day 12 – The last day was bittersweet. After short runs during our time in the Amazon, our legs were itching for some miles. Edwin drove the bus to 4300m (roughly 14,000′) in the Cayambe-Coca Ecological Reserve. As we bounced along the typical mountain road in anticipation of our last run of the trip, we were graced with the sight of a spectacled bear charging up and over a ridge in the distance. We stopped the bus and watched in awe. After continuing upward, we again caught sight of the beer as it ran down the other side of the mountain. At the end of the road, we unloaded the bus as the cold wind whipped us into action. The clouds threatened to obstruct the magnificent views of this day’s run, but the sky quickly cleared to reveal views of surrounding mountains, countless lakes at every turn, and the familiar páramo vegetation. We let our legs go as we flew downhill through yellows, greens, and reds. You would think after two weeks of spectacular views that we’d have already seen it all. The nearly 7.5 miles of our last run were just as breathtaking as the first 7 miles of the trip. Post run we headed back to the natural thermal pools to soak our muscles and soak up the last moments of our adventure.

We loaded the bus for the last time and headed back towards Quito. We spent the evening celebrating the trip at one more beautiful hotel, Casa d'Campo Tababela Hotel Boutique. The hotel is loaded from floor to ceiling, wall to wall, with an eclectic mix of art, and collectables. We let loose for one more time together as we sang embarrassing karaoke songs, played foosball and pool, and threw back a few celebratory drinks. We had covered Ecuador from the Andes to the Amazon and back again. Fueled by lots and lots of soup, good company, and our own two feet (well, most of the whole time).

Ecuador 2018 Part 1

By Ashley Vander Meeden

At just before 10 am in the morning (I am not a morning person) I laced up my Merrell shoes for a quick mile run on day number 310 of my run streak. My husband Zach and I would be traveling all day and there would be no time for a run later in the day. We dropped off the girls, Sierra, age 6, and Isabel, age 3, with my parents in Fort Collins, Colorado. This also involved unloading so much stuff … the bags of clothes, book bags, soccer gear, bikes, and everything else we thought they’d need for watching the girls while we were out of the country. We tried to contain our emotions as we lingered over long hugs with the girls and thought about two weeks without them.

For a seemingly individualistic sport, I’m constantly surprised by the way running brings people together and allows space for conversations (though sometimes between sucking air). From high school cross country sleep overs and team dinners, to long training run conversations with friends, running is more than just act of rapidly moving on foot.

As a working adult, running has become something of a substitute for the past trend of golf course networking (though don’t get me wrong, I personally love to play golf as well). I’ve built deep and meaningful friendships with coworkers turned friends over miles together on the trail and the road.

This two week trip to Ecuador would prove to be no different, connecting the 14 of us (plus our stellar and steady bus driver Edison) over endless views, good conversations, and of course miles of trail running. The Crew: Zach, Anna Frost (Frosty), Ron Braselton (Braz), Alex, Andrew, Joel, Kim, Audrey, Nicole, Ruben, Ásdís, Veronica Rojas Paurell, and Jonas Paurell. The trip was led by Anna and Braz and their guiding company, Trail Run Adventures. In Ecuador, they partnered with Veronica and Jonas from Vagabond Trails.

Photo Credit: Jonas Paurell

Day 0 – We bounced from Denver, to Atlanta, to Ecuador, rolling in to Mariscal Sucre International Airport in Quito at nearly 11 pm. As the wheels hit the tarmac, Zach logged country number 23 in his international travels (and number 22 for me). We slowly emerged from customs and scanned the crowd of people for Braz and the “Trail Run Adventures” sign. After a short taxi ride, we were dropped off at the Rukka Lodge, a gorgeous combination of modern lines, vivid textiles, warm exposed wood, and striking gardens.

Day 1 – “Five deep belly breaths” Breathe … Breathe … Breathe … Breathe … Breathe. Good morning. Quito is at 2800m (9,350′) and even our wanderings around the city started the acclimatization process that would be so important to our time in Ecuador. Zach and I, and the other Coloradoans on the trip (Andrew, Kim, and Audrey), figured our mile high home would give us a leg up on the process. No doubt it helped, but I still struggled to breath as we walked hilly cobblestone streets in old town Quito (and that was walking, not running, eek). City Highlights: Plaza Grande, La Compania de Jesus (church completely covered in gold), Basilica del Voto Nacional towers, Calle de la Ronda, and street performers.

Once everyone had arrived throughout the day (and some of us the previous day) we met up for the reason we are all here, to run! We ran 4 miles together along the famous El Chaquiñán path, keenly feeling the lack of oxygen. The path is a popular and safe destination for walkers, runners, and bikers.

Dinner the first night was at one of the hotel’s restaurant, Okeaan Sushi & Seafood, and it set a pattern for the trip that we rarely strayed from – soup, entrée, and dessert! “Buen Provecho!” We dug into food and conversation. The first soup was an unbelievable fish ceviche that was perfectly seasoned with cilantro and lime juice.

Soup rant. Over the trip we would have many soups including: chard soup, celery soup, cevichocho with popcorn (a traditional bean ceviche), quinoa soup, onion soup, veggie pasta soup, and Locro de papa (an Ecuadorian potato and cheese soup with avocado). The majority of lunches and dinners included a soup and it warmed us to the bone and no doubt boosted our daily battle of staying hydrated. Throughout the two weeks, we were served heaping piles of delicious food at every meal.

“Five deep belly breaths” Breathe … Breathe … Breathe … Breathe … Breathe. Good night.

Day 2 – We loaded our bags onto the bus, found spots that we’d quickly become attached to, and started the three-hour bus ride into La Sierra or “the highlands” to the town of Sigchos. Our driver, Edison and our bus would be along with us for the entire two-week journey. We loaded our running vests with our rain jackets, trekking poles, water, and snacks to begin the day’s 7 mile run. As we acclimatized, we breathed in hard for more oxygen and our noses filled with the minty sweet smell of eucalyptus trees and the harsh lingering smell of smoke from black patches of earth. With no rain since August, local farmers had been lighting fires the previous weeks in the highlands to ritualistically call for rain. The rain came and the mountains perked up with checkered green squares of farming all across the landscape. The light rain baptized our first long run as we arrived at the town of Isinlivi and the Llu Llu Llama Hostel. Post run we relaxed in the sauna and hot tub, unwound with yoga and enjoyed local cervezas such as the Red Llama Ale from the Quito brewery, Camino Del Sol. Zach and I drifted off to sleep at an unusually early bed time to the crackling fire in the corner of our room.

Day 3 – Our run today was another point to point from Isinlivi to the town of Chugchilán. The 8 miles of trail took us through the Toachi canyon and along the river. The views continued of the highlands and the spectrum of greens for as far as our eyes could see. Along many of our runs we experienced animals of every shape and color – llamas, dogs, cats, pigs, donkeys, horses, sheep, alpacas, and rabbits. On this day, as we ran down a dirt road with steep walls rising up on our right and our left, a pack of dogs on both sides loomed over us and barked angrily. Scenes of the hyenas in Lion King flashed in my mind. Many animals we experienced during the trip wanted to immediately make their presence known, but quickly faded into the distance, but this particular group of dogs meant business. As we continued on, the dogs ran around to cut off our path and viciously defend a horse that was tied up nearby. We yelled and threw rocks. We brandished sticks and trekking poles turned defense weapons, as the dogs continued to defend their territory and their horse. Thankfully we were able to reroute ourselves to a safe distance from the dogs and connect later with the original trail. Much like the day before, Day 3 ended with a soaking rain as we ran in to town and the Black Sheep Inn.

Day 4 – The beginning of our 8.5 mile run funnels us through a discouraging flow of trash. The contrast of the debris and the mountainous views was startling. In the early morning, we flew through a field of chocho beans. The waist high plants are a species of lupin and bloomed deep purple. One after another we raced downhill. Wet from the early morning our shoes and pants soaked up the moisture and the seeds rattled rhythmically in their pods. After reaching the valley below, we began to march upward along the edge of the mountainside. Slow and steady, breathing heavy we earned the ridge of El Quilotoa Lagoon. We were rewarded with a breathtaking run around the rim looking down to the water filled crater below. The single-track path is framed by glowing golden grasses that lightly slapped at our feet. I couldn’t help but stop over and over again to snap photos as the changing perspective altered with the reflection of ridge and clouds in the vast lagoon. The landscape was dotted by orange highlights of native Chuquiragua flowers. The flower is known as the “national flower of mountain climbers” and “the flower of true love.” It has been used as traditional medicines and the Ecuadorian hillstar hummingbird relies on it heavily for food. We rendezvoused with our bus at the crater and headed to El Cotopaxi National Park.

Day 5 – So far on the trip I’d had the usual tummy issues that a daily popping of Imodium seemed to keep under control. This morning I woke up to a nauseous feeling that nagged at me all morning. Directly outside the enormous window at the foot of our bed was a direct view of Cotopaxi volcano (19,347′), but I spent the majority of the day napping in bed. The mountain was covered with clouds so at least I wasn’t missing much. This day had been a planned rest day with no run on the schedule so it worked out conveniently to not feel amazing. With no headache or other indications of altitude sickness, I chalked up the nausea to something I ate and vowed to be ready for the next day’s big trek. A few other people of our group hung out at the hotel that day, the Tambopaxi Lodge, while the rest of them donned ponchos and helmets and saddled up for a 3-hour horseback ride throughout the national park. They described the ride as surreal, wandering like cowboys in the vast landscape. Around lunch time I forced myself to eat two servings of Clif Shot Blocks. I went back to sleep for a bit and when I woke up I rolled out of bed to do a slow 1 mile run. Day number 315 of my run streak was a success. After my run, I went to the restaurant to force myself to eat a big bowl of celery soup. I knew if I was going to be ready for the next day I needed calories!

Photo Credit: Jonas Paurell

Day 6 – All our days at altitude had been building us up for the climb up El Rumiñahui, an extinct volcano at over 15,000′!! We got an early start to the day and took the bus a short drive to the Laguna Limpiopungo. On the drive over, the clouds cleared in front of Cotopaxi and we stopped to snap photos of the second highest summit in Ecuador. We hiked through the páramo ecosystem, as the sea of golden grasses brushed against our legs. The sun beat down on us and Cotopaxi loomed behind us. Since 1738, Cotopaxi has erupted more than 50 times and the landscape is peppered with boulders from past eruptions. The gentle upward slope began to get steeper and steeper. As we neared the center summit, we scrambled over rocks big and small. We all huddled on the tiny summit, our first 15er, surrounded by clouds and 360 degree epic views. We descended the top rocky portion, and then bombed down a stretch of sand. Like kids, we ran bounding downhill with giant strides that landed in soft, deep sand. After dumping out shoefuls of sand, we let loose and ran all the way back to the lake where we started. The run was fast and gorgeous through sweeping grasses, the sun was shining and the view was majestic. After showers and lunch, we jumped on the bus to head The Northern Andes and Casa Mojanda.

Day 7 – After a hefty up and down route the day before, day 7 entailed a loop trail around Laguna Cuicocha, which translates as “guinea pig lake.” This roughly 8-mile run was all about the views! This was my favorite run of the trip. We ran counterclockwise and the huge crater lagoon was always on our left with two islands plopped in the middle. The trail around the rim of this lake was dotted with flowers and we ran rolling hills along the loop. Towering above in the distance were the massive volcanoes of Imbabura and Cayambe. After our run, we enjoyed lunch and tested our adventurous palates with a local Ecuadorian specialty, guinea pig! (Think gamey chicken.) We cooled down from the run as we wandered through Cotacachi, an area famous for leatherwork. We picked up small leather purses for our daughters.

CHECK OUT ECUADOR 2019 - PART 2 TO READ ABOUT THE REST OF THE TRIP.

Welcome to Trail Run Adventures

Welcome to the Trail Run Adventures blog. As trail runners, mountain adventurers, and outdoor lovers, we have spent the past 20 years exploring the globe and immersing ourselves in local cultures and experiences. We have been so enriched by these amazing opportunities and hope to share our stories of adventure all around the world.

We will be updating our blog regularly with stories and photos from past trips and all things trail running.